Friday 29 October 2021

Half Day Walking Tour of the Chateau of Chenonceau.

The most iconic of the Touraine Loire Valley chateaux.

Chateau de Chenonceau, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Chateau de Chenonceau.


 

A morning or afternoon spent at the most famous of the Touraine Loire Valley chateau. The chateau sits in the River Cher, reflected in the slow moving water and surrounded by formal gardens and peaceful parkland. You will learn about its royal occupants, their intrigues and loves, as well as the chateau's earlier humbler history and its role in world events in modern times.

Kitchens, Chateau of Chenonceau, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Kitchen.
 

We will start by approaching the famous chateau by the impressive driveway, just as the visitors of old would have done! I'll tell stories of its history before it was a royal chateau and we will go out on to the terrace of Diane de Poitiers garden to view the exterior in its entirety. This enables you to understand the chronology of the building and the history of its owners.

Balance in the Apothecary, Chateau of Chenonceau, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Apothecary's balance.
 

Then we will go inside to explore the magnificent interior. We can easily spend over an hour inside there is so much to see (especially at Christmas time when the house is decorated even more extravagantly) but finally we will emerge to visit the stables. 

Painted decoration in Louise of Lorraine's bedchamber, Chateau of Chenonceau, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Painted decoration in Louise of Lorraine's bedchamber.
 

Itinerary
*Meet outside the Chateau de Chenonceau visitor centre.

*Enter the grounds and go to the terrace of Diane de Poitiers garden.
*Visit the interior of the chateau.
*Visit the stables.
*Walk through the gardens and farmyard.
*I will leave you at the entrance. 

Conservator working on a gilded frame, Chateau of Chenonceau, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Conservator working on a gilded frame. Visitors are allowed to watch when conservation work is going on.
 

Duration: 3 hours.

Anteroom in Catherine de Medici's private apartments, Chateau de Chenonceau, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Anteroom in Catherine de Medici's private apartments.

 

 
This tour is easy to customise or extend to lunch in a nearby restaurant and/or a walk along the River Cher, or even a visit to a winery (if you have your own transport). Email me for a price. 

Chateau of Chenonceau, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
View of the chateau from the other side of the river.
 

This is a walking tour. At the Chateau of Chenonceau the paths are compacted gravel. There are some stairs.

Security signs at the entrance of the Chateau of Chenonceau, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Security is strict at the entrance. The sign also warns dogs to beware of the 'guard cat' Noisette.
 
 
Price: €200 for groups of up to 4 people. Admission tickets are not included.

Front of the Chateau of Chenonceau, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Front facade of the chateau.
 

Booking: email admin@tourtheloire.com at least one day before you wish to take the tour. Tours can be conducted on any day of the week, throughout the year, at a time to suit you.

Ox, probably made for an agricultural show, in the collection of the Chateau of Chenonceau, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
There are some pleasingly bizarre things in the collection at Chenonceau. We think this ox was probably made for an agricultural show parade.
 

Review of this Tour: Susan was very knowledgeable and interesting to listened. She brought the chateau to life telling us many intriguing details about the history of both the people who lived there and the times they lived in. I wish we could take another tour with her. The only downside is now I know I am not capturing all there is to know about other places I visit in the Loire valley. I highly recommend taking a tour with Susan.
Dana Pepper 

Chateau of Chenonceau, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
The chateau seen from Diane de Poitiers' garden.
 

About the Guide: I am Susan Walter. I specialise in story telling, the weaving together of this fact and that, this character and their relationship with another. It is a technique which brings alive the history of what is sometimes just stones to look at, but those stones may lead to something wonderfully evocative and provide a better understanding of the past. Much of the history of the Loire Valley is about important characters which you will have heard of, but there is a great deal of hidden history too -- characters who have been forgotten in modern times, motivations for deeds which seem inexplicable can become clear, how different life was then, but also how similar. If you want to know who would graffiti a royal chapel and why, and why it isn't who most guides will tell you it is, then take a tour with me. If you want to know about the history of bathing and personal hygiene, and how that isn't quite what you think it is, then take a tour with me. If you want to meet fascinating characters from history who really made a difference, often women, then take a tour with me.

View from the balcony, Chateau of Chenonceau, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
View from the balcony of the chateau.
 

English speaking, born and raised in Australia, I lived for 12 years in England, where I worked for the National Trust in their Historic Buildings Conservation Department, and now in the UNESCO World Heritage Listed Loire Valley for more than a decade. I am an active heritage and nature conservation professional with experience of working with conservators and curators to care for historic objects and buildings, and with ecologists caring for our natural environment. Deeply embedded in the local scene I speak quite good French and enjoy life in a small village near some fabulous chateaux and lovely countryside. I'm always happy to talk about life in France and am friends with many wine makers and local food producers. I love to cook and to eat and will make sure you have an authentic dining experience while you are in the Loire Valley. Interested in the quirky and little known local histories, and I can't wait to pass them on to you.

Apothecary, Chateau of Chenonceau, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Inside the apothecary.


Monday 25 October 2021

Half Day Walking Tour of Amboise – Chateau and Church.

The residence of kings and the resting place of their codebreakers.

 

Chateau Royal d'Amboise, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Chateau Royal d'Amboise.



This walking tour visits the Royal Chateau of Amboise and the Eglise Saint Denis. The chateau is a well known architectural and historical gem which dominates the small picturesque town. The nearby Saint Denis's Church houses some extraordinary funerary monuments, whose true history is not widely known, even by the locals. The two places make an exceptional day out and can easily be done as a day trip from Paris or Tours.

16C tomb of the Babou family, St Denis, Amboise, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Tomb of the Babou family, Saint Denis, Amboise.


I'll tell the stories of the various royal occupants, their triumphs and sorrows, births and deaths in this historic place. Because my background is in the care and management of historic sites I will also talk about the behind the scenes aspects of running a historic monument.

Tomb of a member of the Babou family, St Denis, Amboise, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Tomb of a member of the Babou family, Saint Denis, Amboise.
 



At Saint Denis's Church I will show you some extraordinary funerary monuments belonging to royal courtiers. I will tell you the fascinating background to these expressive sculptures. The church is medieval and I will point out some amusing carvings typical of the period. 

Chateau Royal d'Amboise, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Chateau Royal d'Amboise.



Itinerary
*Meet at the entrance of the Chateau Royal of Amboise (at the bottom of the entrance ramp opposite Bigot’s pastry shop).

*Visit the grounds and interior of the chateau and chapel.
*Walk through the centre of old Amboise, making short stops for photographs or at any shops that appeal.
*Visit the church of Saint Denis to see the funerary monuments.
*I will leave you at the church.

Duration: 3 hours.

Note that this tour does not visit the Manoir de Clos Luce or take afternoon tea at Bigot's, but I am happy to point you in the right direction for an independent visit at the end of our tour.

This tour is easy to customise and extend to include a visit to a wine boutique for a tasting, and/or lunch at a typical local restaurant. Email me for a price.

This is a walking tour. There are not too many stairs, but Amboise is not flat and there are a number of ramps and paved slopes to walk up and/or down. Please wear closed comfortable shoes for the tour as we will be on our feet a lot. There are some opportunities to sit in the chateau grounds, and of course, you can take a pew in the church.

Price: €200 for groups of up to 4 people. Admission tickets are not included.

Booking: email admin@tourtheloire.com at least one day before you wish to take the tour. Tours can be conducted on any day of the week, throughout the year, at a time to suit you.

About the Guide: I am Susan Walter. I specialise in story telling, the weaving together of this fact and that, this character and their relationship with another. It is a technique which brings alive the history of what is sometimes just stones to look at, but those stones may lead to something wonderfully evocative and provide a better understanding of the past. Much of the history of the Loire Valley is about important characters which you will have heard of, but there is a great deal of hidden history too -- characters who have been forgotten in modern times, motivations for deeds which seem inexplicable can become clear, how different life was then, but also how similar. If you want to know who would graffiti a royal chapel and why, and why it isn't who most guides will tell you it is, then take a tour with me. If you want to know about the history of bathing and personal hygiene, and how that isn't quite what you think it is, then take a tour with me. If you want to meet fascinating characters from history who really made a difference, often women, then take a tour with me.

English speaking, born and raised in Australia, I lived for 12 years in England, where I worked for the National Trust in their Historic Buildings Conservation Department, and now in the UNESCO World Heritage Listed Loire Valley for more than a decade. I am an active heritage and nature conservation professional with experience of working with conservators and curators to care for historic objects and buildings, and with ecologists caring for our natural environment. Deeply embedded in the local scene I speak quite good French and enjoy life in a small village near some fabulous chateaux and lovely countryside. I'm always happy to talk about life in France and am friends with many wine makers and local food producers. I love to cook and to eat and will make sure you have an authentic dining experience while you are in the Loire Valley. Interested in the quirky and little known local histories, and I can't wait to pass them on to you.

Thursday 21 October 2021

Historical Graffiti Tour in the Loire Valley

Messages from the past scratched into the stone. 

 

16C graffiti in the chapel of the Chateau of Chenonceau, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Graffiti in the chapel of the Chateau of Chenonceau.



This one hour long tour takes place at either the Chateau of Chenonceau or the Donjon of Loches. In both cases you will see some extraordinary and unique graffiti, but the two sites are quite different, so talk to me about which you might prefer.

Graffiti stags in a staircase tower, Donjon de Loches, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Graffiti stags, probably 16C, Loches.
 


Even though we rarely know the names of those who made the marks or the messages, each of the examples you will see tell a story about their times. They are almost always associated with conflict (the Reformation and Wars of Religion, the World Wars, the Revolution). None of them are well known and few guides have any real information about them or even point them out.

16C graffiti by Protestant soldiers, Loches, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
16C Lifesize graffiti soldiers, Loches.
 
Very little study has been made of the graffiti, but my research indicates that these are not idle scratch marks. They are extensive and made by people who really wanted to get a message across, from the 16C to modern times. In all cases the graffiti are absolutely unique and you will not see anything like them elsewhere. In fact, don't even think of them as graffiti -- they are messages from the past, and in some cases, works of art. 16C street art -- except it's not in the street! I cannot stress enough how unique this graffiti is and how little known, except to a few local experts.

16C graffiti by Protestant soldiers, Loches, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Lifesize graffiti of soldiers dueling, Loches.
 

Itinerary
Chateau of Chenonceau
*meet at the Sphinxes on the driveway in front of the Chateau of Chenonceau.
*at the Chateau of Chenonceau: see WWII graffiti on the river wall, WWI graffiti in the Long Gallery and mysterious and important 16C graffiti in the chapel.
*afterwards you have the opportunity to explore the rest of the chateau at your own pace. 

Painted river boat graffiti, Loches, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Painted river boat, Loches.
 

Donjon of Loches
*meet at the Porte Royale (Royal Gate) of the Cité Royal (Royal Citadel) in Loches.

*at the Donjon (keep) of Loches: see a painted river boat in a prison cell, an entire room carved with religious motifs and lifesize soldiers, many messages and drawings on the staircase walls, paintings by Ludovico Sforza, Duke of Milan on the walls of his prison cell.
*afterwards you have the opportunity to explore the rest of the citadel at your own pace.



WWI graffiti, Chateau of Chenonceau, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
WWI graffiti at the Chateau of Chenonceau.


Now your eye is in you will see more graffiti. Don't miss the witch marks and the Revolutionary messages!

Cross of Lorraine and V for Victory graffiti on the river wall at the Chateau of Chenonceau, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
WWII graffiti in the grounds of the Chateau of Chenonceau.


This tour as a whole or partially, can be customized to fit your preferences - please inquire!

Painted decoration on the prison cell of Ludovico Sforza, Loches, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
16C wall paintings by Ludovico Sforza, Duke of Milan, in his prison cell, Loches.

 

Duration: 1 hour.

16C Wall paintings by Ludovico Sforza in his prison cell, Loches, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
16C Wall paintings by Ludovico Sforza, Duke of Milan, in his prison cell, Loches.

 


This is a walking tour. At the Chateau of Chenonceau the paths are gravel and no need to take the stairs to see graffiti. At the Donjon of Loches there are quite a few stairs, in narrow spiral towers.
 
Price: €75 for groups of up to 4 people. Admission tickets are not included.

Booking: email admin@tourtheloire.com at least one day before you wish to take the tour. Tours can be conducted on any day of the week, throughout the year, at a time to suit you.

About the Guide: I am Susan Walter. I specialise in story telling, the weaving together of this fact and that, this character and their relationship with another. It is a technique which brings alive the history of what is sometimes just stones to look at, but those stones may lead to something wonderfully evocative and provide a better understanding of the past. Much of the history of the Loire Valley is about important characters which you will have heard of, but there is a great deal of hidden history too -- characters who have been forgotten in modern times, motivations for deeds which seem inexplicable can become clear, how different life was then, but also how similar. If you want to know who would graffiti a royal chapel and why, and why it isn't who most guides will tell you it is, then take a tour with me. If you want to know about the history of bathing and personal hygiene, and how that isn't quite what you think it is, then take a tour with me. If you want to meet fascinating characters from history who really made a difference, often women, then take a tour with me.

WWI graffiti at the Chateau de Chenonceau, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
WWI graffiti in the Chateau of Chenonceau.

English speaking, born and raised in Australia, I lived for 12 years in England, where I worked for the National Trust in their Historic Buildings Conservation Department, and now in the UNESCO World Heritage Listed Loire Valley for more than a decade. I am an active heritage and nature conservation professional with experience of working with conservators and curators to care for historic objects and buildings, and with ecologists caring for our natural environment. Deeply embedded in the local scene I speak quite good French and enjoy life in a small village near some fabulous chateaux and lovely countryside. I'm always happy to talk about life in France and am friends with many wine makers and local food producers.

Sunday 17 October 2021

Frost Damage in the Loire Valley Vineyards

We hope that when you visit the Loire Valley you will support local small scale wine estates. These are usually family run, and you will probably never have heard of them. But they are making great small batch artisanal wines that reflect the long traditions of working with chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc, cot (malbec), gamay and cabernet franc in the Loire Valley. This year it is more important than ever to support the small producers because all of them in this area have been affected by the cold snap that frosted the vines in mid-April. The loss of this year's vintage, or part of it, is a severe blow.

Frost damaged vine, Chinon, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Frost damaged vine, Chinon. The leaf buds on the left are dead so there will be no fruit producing growth from them.

To enquire about our private guided tours of chateaux, wineries, markets and more email us or use our contact form. More tour ideas can be found on the Loire Valley Time Travel website.

Wednesday 13 October 2021

World War Two French Resistance in the Loire Valley – La Roche Posay Hostage Crisis.

La Roche Posay is a small spa town about a ten minutes car journey from where we live. The water here is high in selenium and is the basis of skin care products in l’Oréal’s La Roche Posay range. L’Oréal owns much of the commercial centre of town and before the Covid19 pandemic there were big plans announced of a huge investment into the community infrastructure to turn the town into a luxury spa resort with access to cutting edge skin care treatments. If you have an intractable skin condition in France, your doctor may well give you a prescription for two weeks in La Roche Posay to ‘take the cure’, all paid for by your State health insurance. Visitors to the town’s spas are known as curistes. But that is today, when all is peaceful, if you are interested I will tell you about a frightening incident that occurred here 76 years ago, only a day after the liberation of Paris.

 

Square Abbe Brand, La Roche Posay, Vienne, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
The square in La Roche Posay is named after a local hero of the Second World War.

 

To enquire about our private guided tours of chateaux, wineries, markets and more email us or use our contact form. More tour ideas can be found on the Loire Valley Time Travel website.

Saturday 9 October 2021

Oysters in the Loire Valley

Oysters are super popular in France and here in the Touraine Loire Valley we are close enough to the Atlantic coast that certain oyster producers come up regularly with fresh oysters for the markets. The types to look out for are the Creuse (hollow), the Pousse en Claire (saltmarsh pond grown) and the Fine. The Creuse is the most available and affordable, the Fines and Claires the most prized for their meatiness and flavour. They are normally eaten au naturel, or with a few drops of shallot vinegar. If you like fresh oysters, let us know and we will try to make sure the restaurant is serving them the day of your tour.

Oysters at a market, Indre et Loire, France. Photo by Loire Valley Time Travel.
Oysters at my local market.


To enquire about our private guided tours of chateaux, wineries, markets and more email us or use our contact form. More tour ideas can be found on the Loire Valley Time Travel website. If you would like an idea of how your tour might look and sound, please check out our YouTube channel.

Tuesday 5 October 2021

October Rose in the Loire Valley

If you see pink bales of hay or silage in the fields in the Loire Valley you know that the farmer is supporting breast cancer awareness and research. The pink plastic indicates the farmer has donated to a cancer charity. Agriculture is the biggest economic sector in the Loire Valley and 50% of people in agriculture here are women, so it is not surprising that support for October Rose is strong.
To enquire about our private guided tours of chateaux, wineries, markets and more email us or use our contact form. More tour ideas can be found on the Loire Valley Time Travel website.