The
term ‘market’ means slightly different things in different
countries, but here in France, the term ‘marché’ (‘market’)
used on its own means an open air general street market held weekly
in a market place. Almost all of them are morning only affairs. Their
main focus is fresh local produce, but there will be produce from
further afield too, and other household items. Most locals will shop
at them regularly and they are held everywhere from the largest
cities to the smallest villages. My own village, population 1004, has
this type of market twice a week, on Thursdays and Saturdays. A
slightly different array of stallholders set up on the two different
market days, and it is a small market of fewer than ten stalls.
Nevertheless, I buy all my fresh vegetables and poultry at my village
market. I can also buy fish, dry goods, honey, locally grown fruit in
season and goats cheese at my village market.
 |
Loches market. |
I
am also lucky enough to live near Loches (population 7000), which has
one of the best markets in the Loire Valley, with about 200 stalls
twice a week, on Wednesdays and Saturdays. If I want a bigger range
of products I will go to Loches, where I can get a full range of
French cheeses, meats (including horse and goat), different
speciality pastries and breads, exotic fruits brought in by
greengrocers, and seasonal produce like asparagus and strawberries at
their peak. At this bigger market I can also shop for market baskets,
handwoven rugs and throws, soaps and artisanal skin care products,
and good quality good value clothing.
 |
Vegetables
at Loches market. These are grown just the other side of the river to
where they are sold, so they travel a couple of kilometres. |
These
markets go ahead come rain or shine (the stallholders tell me that
snow puts fewer customers off than rain) and no matter if the market
day falls on a holiday (with the exception of Christmas and New Years
Day). Traditonally the customer does not touch the produce or serve
themselves, but allows the stallholder to choose each item. Producers
are always eager to tell customers all about what they have for sale
and give you advice on how to prepare it. They don’t want their
super fresh fruit and vegetables handled multiple times by strangers
when on the farm they’ve taken so much care. Customers are often
asked when they plan to use a product and how. Once the producer
knows this they will take care to choose just the right fruit or
vegetables for you. In these Covid19 ridden days, these open air
markets are seen as a safer way to shop, and the supermarket is
reserved for purchasing household cleaners and soft drinks.
 |
My
aged neighbour Louis, who sells the excess produce from his extensive
veggie patch at our village market. He is completely anti-pesticides for
anything that is destined to be food, and worked all his life as an
agricultural labourer. |
 |
My chef friend Stéphane choosing strawberries at Amboise market. |
 |
Me
buying goat meat at Loches market. Considering how many goats there are
in the Loire Valley it seems odd that there is no tradition of eating
goats meat here, and this is one of the few butchers who supplies it. |
 |
My
friend Sylvain, who runs a small specialist grocery home delivery and
market service. All his products are locally sourced and produced. |
 |
Veggies being delivered to a restaurant from Loches market. |
 |
Old fruit boxes lovingly cared for and kept in use by the current generation of orchardists in my village. |
 |
Goose eggs for sale in my village market. |
 |
Loches market. This photo was taken just before mask wearing became mandatory at the market. |
 |
Organic veg from the market garden on the edge of my village, at the market in the village. |
 |
Organic veg from the market garden on the edge of my village, at the market in the village. |
 |
The
melons and onions stall at my village market. The reason he only sells
melons and onions is because that is all he grows, alternating the crops
to maintain soil and crop health. |
 |
This oyster producer comes up from the Atlantic coast once a week to the Saturday market in my village. |
 |
Cherry
tomatoes grown in greenhouses heated by the waste water from the
nuclear power station near Chinon for sale at my village market. They
are expensive but delicious. |
 |
My
friend Fabrice, who has a market garden across the road from the famous
gardens of Villandry, selling radishes at Loches market. This was a
Wednesday, and when I remarked upon the size of the pile he informed me
that on Saturdays he sold twice that many. |
 |
Salmon
at my village market. It is tagged as being Label Rouge certification,
which means it has been farmed under a very strict set of guidelines. |
 |
Saucissons
(dry cured sausages) at Loches market. These are not a local product
because there is not a strong tradition in the Loire Valley of salt
cured meat. |
 |
Tony, my local organic orchardist, at my village market. The apples in the basket on the right are an old unknown variety. |
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